Install Guides » Hard-Wired » Parts » Dock » Install

Part 3: Hard-Wired iPod Installation

Special thanks to DocRon from and for his DIY article on who provided the original instructions I worked from. The vast majority of these instructions are ripped-off from him, so I hope he doesn’t mind. And thanks to JT of JT Audio & Accessories in Anaheim who provided some crucial tips on how to remove the darn clock trim. Without it, I would have given up and taken it to a professional – which would mean I wouldn’t have been able to put together this DIY article.

  1. Lower Car Windows (Coupe only). Remember the windows will raise and lower slightly upon opening/closing the door. You don’t want to risk clipping the top of your windows when rolled up while opening and closing your doors during this project.
  2. Move Seats all the way back. This will allow you more room to move around during the install.
  3. Disconnect the ground terminal of your battery. You don’t want any electrical surprises during your install. You will need to reconnect it later during the installation, but it’s better to be safe than sorry.

  4. Raise you steering wheel as high as it will go. This will make it easier for you to get at some screws and panels.
  5. Remove the screw located below the hood release.

  6. Pull down driver panel using notch located under steering column. You don’t have to disconnect any wiring, just let it hang gently.
  7. Remove indicated screw of driver side panel. Removal of this screw will make it easier to disengage side panel as well as removal of driver side middle AC vent when you remove the HVAC unit.

  8. Remove the indicated screw towards the back of the driver side panel. You may not need to do this, but I found it was easier to move the panels around without this screw in place.

  9. Start disengaging driver side panel by pulling the bottom of panel toward the left of vehicle. There are 2 clips that hold the side panel. You don’t have to disconnect the 12V power plug, just let it gently hang. The reason for this removal is to allow enough clearance to remove the left AC vent when removing the HVAC unit.
  10. Disengage and lower the passenger side kick plastic plate located under the lower glove box.

  11. Loosen the passenger side door trim. This is done to allow the disengagement and removal of the passenger side kick panel.

  12. Loosen passenger side kick panel and remove indicated screw. Pull at the bottom of the kick panel toward the left of the vehicle. There is only 1 or 2 clips that need to be disengaged. You don’t have to completely remove this panel. This panel needs to pulled out enough to expose the lower glove box bottom right screw.

  13. Remove the lower glove box bottom left screw.

  14. Open glove box and remove the 4 screws that hold the top of the glove box.

  15. Loosen Glove Box. Gently pull directly down on the glove box and let gently hang. There is no need to disconnect any wires. The tightest wire will be the trunk release cancel switch. The glove box need to hang down in order to remove the passenger side panel.

  16. Disengage the passenger side panel by again initially pulling at the bottom of the side panel towards the right of the vehicle. There is no need to disconnect the 12V power plug. This is removed to again allow clearance for the removal of the HVAC unit and clearance of the right AC vent.

  17. Taking apart the Center Console: You will need to re-attach the ground terminal on your battery in order to complete the following steps.
  18. Put the shifter to 'N'.
  19. Remove Shift Nob. Pull the lower ring down, then remove the c-clip. The nob pulls right off after that.

  20. Remove Center Panel. Lift the console up in the back, directly behind the cup holder. There are no screws, just clips. Then slide the front off by pulling it towards the back gently. There will be a few electrical harnesses you will need to disconnect so you can take the entire center panel out to cut holes and mount your dock. NOTE: Do not attempt to pull off the circular panel underneath the shifter. It does not come off from the top!

  21. Remove Infiniti clock trim piece. This is by far, the hardest part of the install. You probably have read others having trouble with it as well, and I can assure you, it’s no picnic. I almost gave up, but thanks to a tip from JT of JT Audio & Accessories in Anaheim I finally got it off. He suggested sliding in some cardboard between the pieces to protect the material, then use a piece of plastic to pry the piece off. I didn’t have much success with any cardboard, but found a ruler that had a rounded beveled edge that worked perfectly. The rounded edges allowed me to do it with no damage to the dash parts. I started from the top left corner, and got enough of an edge so I could stick my fingers underneath the trim, then wiggled and pulled towards the back of the car to get it off. First, take the top two corners off, then the bottom.

  22. Disconnect the plug of the LED security light. Place the clock trim piece in a safe place (i.e. the back seat).  You truly don’t have to disconnect the power wires and remove the clock or the clock trim piece. You can just lay them up there on the top of the dash. You have to remove these pieces in order to get the aluminum bracket anchor screw in the next few steps.
  23. Remove the 2 screws that hold the Infiniti clock. Disconnect the clock plug.

  24. Remove the screw that anchors the aluminum bracket.

  25. Locate and remove the 2 bottom screws that anchor the HVAC unit and aluminum brackets. These screws are located above the location of the now-removed center console/ashtray/hazard light switch. In this photo, the screws are already removed.

  26. Remove the trim plastic piece located above the navi cubby and AC vents. Carefully insert a precision flathead screwdriver and wedge it out. Be careful not to scratch the piece and not to snap it in two by pulling too aggressively. It is a very soft piece of plastic. This trim piece, once initially detached, can be removed easily.

  27. Remove the Radio. Again, put the gear shifter in neutral as the HVAC unit will not clear the shifter if it is left in PARK. Put a towel (or something soft) between the shifter and the bottom of the HVAC unit to prevent any scratches to your nice plastic “titanium” interior. Grab the HVAC unit at the bottom and gently and gradually pull deck down and out. The hardest removal locations are the AC vents and the top aluminum bracket (where you removed the screw). The entire HVAC unit is pretty heavy so again be careful not to scratch any titanium paint. You’ll have to place the removed HVAC unit over the gear shifter and resting it on the black bottom part of the center console (NOT the removed aluminum center console that now is resting on your passenger seat).

  28. Disconnect the two indicated plugs on the back of the HVAC unit. Get any screwdriver and push in retaining clip on the bottom of each plug to remove the plug from the HVAC unit. The small plug on the top of this photo is the 12-pin SAT plug, and the larger one on the bottom is the main power plug. Keep in mind, this photo is taken from the top of the dash while the HVAC unit is leaning forward. Technically, if the unit were upright, the SAT plug would be on the bottom and the power plug would be on top.

  29. Install the AAI-NIS. There is very little room behind the head unit, so you will need to place the AAI-NIS under the center console and run the wires up behind the HVAC unit. Start by putting the AAI-NIS near the shifter and pull all the cables up from the back.

  30. Connect the harnesses. The smaller harness (12-pin) is for the SAT input, and the larger, double-sided harness (10-pin) is for power. Plug the 12-pin harness into the smaller receptacle in the back of the radio. The old 12-pin plug will no longer be used. Insert the 10-pin plug into the larger receptacle in the back of the radio, then connect the old plug to the open harness on the AAI-NIS.

  31. Test to make sure it works. Now would be a good time to test to make sure everything works properly. In my case, the AUX1 and AUX2 ports were labeled incorrectly on the AAI-NIS, so I ended up plugging my iPod into what was labeled AUX2, so it would read “SR1” (Satellite Radio 1) on the dash display when it is powered up. Once you confirm everything is working, you will need to unplug all the RCA’s so you can position the AAI-NIS in it’s final resting place.

  32. Replace HVAC Unit. If everything works, trace your steps and replace the HVAC unit in the dash. Make sure you take up the slack in the AAI-NIS wires so the wires are long enough for you to position the AAI-NIS in the center console.
  33. Remove Arm Rest. Open the arm rest and remove the panel directly underneath the hinge with a flathead screwdriver. Remove the 4 screws holding the arm rest in place.

  34. Remove Back Panel. Gently pull the back panel off and disengage any electrical harnesses.
  35. Cut holes in the two panels where you want to run your wires. I put mine along the right hand side since the wire on the dock connector of the Belkin Auto Charger goes to the right and that’s also the shortest distance to the power outlet.
  36. Position the AAI-NIS underneath the center console. Place the AAI-NIS under the center console. It’s a good idea to keep as many of the wires underneath the horizontal plates as possible. This way, they don’t get in the way when you replace the console pieces. You may have to experiment with plugging and unplugging the RCA cables until you get everything in the right position. Use twist-ties to take-up whatever slack there is in the wires.

  37. Connect the AAI-NIS. Run the Radio Shack Specialty Y-Adapter cable from the appropriate side of the AAI-NIS through the hole in the cup holder and plug it into the dock.
  38. Connect the Belkin Adapter. Take the cable from the Belkin Power Adapter and run the dock connector from the hole in the storage bin through the hole in the cup holder and connect it to the dock on the other side. I also ran an extra RCA cable from my storage bin to AUX1 (which will read as “SR2” on the dash because of the product mistake mentioned earlier). This allows me to add something later without taking everything apart again. Once the cables are run, you can plug the adapter in for power.

  39. Position and bolt the bracketed dock (with cables plugged in) in the cupholder. Remove the interior cupholder and store it for safe-keeping. You won’t be needing it anymore. Make sure you mount the dock in the right position, relative to the hole that you cut in the face plate. It’s important to have everything plugged in now since it’s going to be nearly impossible to connect the plugs once you bolt it down. Depending on your positioning though, you might be able to do it, but I had to un-bolt and re-bolt the dock in order to do it on mine.

  40. Snap the center console pieces back onto the car — don’t forget to connect all the electrical harnesses and make sure the new wire you ran is tucked neatly away underneath. The Belkin Auto Charger has a nice velcro strap to take up excess cable.
  41. Put the plate on. Here are some shots of the new plate that my friend, Hideki Okuda laser-cut out of ABS plastic for me.

  42. The finished product. Note that the dash displays “SR1” for “Satellite Radio 1”

  43. The last step. Throw away that stupid FM Transmitter!

Install Guides » Hard-Wired » Parts » Dock » Install